
It's hot. For one of the mildest summers in Chicago history, very hot. Especially when standing in the middle of an asphalt street with no shade. But it's all worth it, despite the heat and the yuppies and the Miller Lite logos plastered every which way.
I'm with my friend the Weeble (the future washboard-dueling champion of the world--more on that later) at the Wicker Park Fest. Everyone knows that Chi-town plays host to some of the most well known music festivals like Lollapalooza and Pitchfork. Few outside the Midwest are aware that there are countless others during the summer--almost every weekend. The best part? Most of them are dirt-cheap or downright free!
Back in the '90s Wicker Park was an artists' hub, a dirty, inexpensive place to live that incubated acts on the leading edge of alternative rock like Liz Phair and Smashing Pumpkins. Now, as often happens with these areas, the neighborhood has become one of the trendiest places in north Chicago. There is a Starbucks (actually two or three), an Urban Outfitters, an American Apparel. Sure, it still houses funky, offbeat establishments like Earwax Cafe and Myopic Books, and is still a cool place to hang out, but the expense and the sight of middle-class hipsters trying way too hard make it a little too much to handle in large doses.
Like a lot of community-based gatherings, the two-day Wicker Park Fest (WPF) brings acts that are on a lot of different levels--local acts, new bands rising up, and old classics soldiering on. Naturally, this attracts a wide array of fans. Me? I'm there to see Smoking Popes.
You remember the Smoking Popes, right? A poppy punk band from the early '90s? They had a song called "I Need You Around" on the
Clueless soundtrack? Jogging your memory yet? Anyway, that's who I'm there to see, to tap into my early days as a young, bright-eyed grunge kid looking for some respite from the Clintonian cynicism that surrounded me in those years.
The Popes go on at 8pm, so the Weeble and I have all day to clunk around and hopefully check out some new music. It's a pretty relaxed atmosphere among the stalls hawking henna tattoos and fried Wisconsin cheddar curds, the shops to pop into, even the high amount of yuppies with their kids aren't managing to stress us out.
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On the center stage at 2pm, Silverghost play. They're a post-new wave act from Detroit who use their bare-bones aesthetic to their full advantage: Herky-jerky guitar and lo-fi synths that bounce off each other between the proudly minimalist lyrics and robo-rhythm drums. They're the kind of group that won't piss off your parents so much as confuse them, and sometimes, that's even better.
This is the kind of act I showed up to see. New, fresh, original--even if it's not entirely groundbreaking. My hopes are high for what the rest of the day has in store.
As the afternoon progresses, though, these hopes prove to be a bit misguided. Empires play on the north stage, and sound like they've been listening to way too much early Pearl Jam and Mudhoney. They're moderately enjoyable, but ultimately derivative and underwhelming. Back on the south stage, Glossary are a rootsy rock band who seem stuck in mid-slow tempo. Between acts, the center stage is featuring a DJ who, the Weeble and I both agree, is spinning beats more suited for a dark club than a sunny afternoon.
The Weeble, for his part, doesn't seem quite as annoyed as I am, and he certainly keeps me entertained by looking at the schedule and playing the "guess their genre based on their name" game. "This one is indie, this one is straightforward rock, these guys might be alt-country, and I'm willing to bet this will be hip-hop" and so on. We also chat it up about everything from the deteriorating economy to his ideas for pirating music without getting caught to his plans to become the future washboard-dueling champion of the world.
Apparently, the Weeble had been to see a small bluegrass band a couple nights before and was extremely unimpressed by the washboard player. He has seen some really amazing washboard playing (the relative obscurity of washboard-as-instrument notwithstanding), and was so bugged by this guy's lack of versatility that the Weeble has now been inspired to not only take up washboard, but become the greatest washboard player in the world! His plan is to become so amazing at the washboard that, in his own words "anytime I see a band that sucks, I'll be able to go 'you suck. I challenge you to a washboard duel!' I'll go up and I'll win, and they'll be forced to sit down, 'cuz that's what you do." By this point, I'm laughing myself silly.
But based on the way the afternoon is taking shape, I kind of wish some of these bands would be forced offstage by a washboard virtuoso right now. The Modern Skirts are on the north stage now, and though they're enjoyable background noise, their Athens, Georgia origins are showing through (there's a distinct R.E.M. tinge to them that's impossible to ignore).
We go to the south stage to see Backyard Tire Fire, and it turns out that the Weeble had them pegged. They are indeed a country-rock band, which wouldn't have been all bad if they had been good!
"I want my country-rock sloppier than this," he says to me.
"Yeah, like more drunk trucker" I say back. I don't mean that I want them falling all over the stage. I suppose that I mean something a bit more sneering and swaggering, heartfelt. I understand that Drive-By Truckers and Son Volt aren't the end-all-be-all of country-rock, but to me this type of music is about bearing your contradictions for all the world to see, not relying on the same old crap.
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By this point, I'm pretty disappointed. I'm already a little miffed from having missed Mickey Factz the day before (to my knowledge the only hip-hop artist on the bill for the whole weekend), but am still expecting a nice array of rock and indie. Most of the acts aren't as bad as Backyard Tire Fire, but this is Chicago for crying out loud! There is no scarcity of good and daring rock bands of all varietals who would probably be chomping at the bit to play any of the countless music festivals held in the city every summer.
So where are they? The Weeble, as always, had some good insight. The WPF is, after all, held in one of the trendiest areas in the city, and as such, probably isn't willing to put on anything too outrageous. It makes sense. There is, after all, a "kids' corner" at the fest, and it comes as little surprise that the sponsors don't want to scare off the families with anything that really reflects where Chicago's scene or music in general are at.
It all makes sense, and I remember that this isn't the place to come to hear the creme de la creme. It's also worth remembering that I came here to see Smoking Popes, who I hadn't even thought of in years! I remind myself I am standing on the leading edge of
gentrified Chicago, and that makes for more than a few grains of salt. With my expectations reasonably adjusted, I grab a beer and settle back for some good conversation on a nice afternoon with a friend. If I hear some good music, all the better.
It's at around this time that we go to the center stage to hear the last song from the Elms--a cover of Neil Young's "Rockin' in the Free World." These cats can play! Their lead guitarist captures the uncontrolled wail of Young's soloing, but it's clear this isn't just a rip-off. This is just unpretentious rock 'n' roll. It's enough to make us wish we had seen the rest of the Elms' set.
We had now surmised that the best acts were grouped onto the center stage, despite the north and south being much bigger setups. So we decide to hover around there until the next act comes on: Ebony Bones. Apart from seeing her name on the SXSW lineup, I know nothing about her. I was about to be shocked.
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As luck would have it, the center stage is also the one running way behind schedule, so we have a half hour or so to duck into a few shops and kill time. When we reemerge, the heat has dissipated, the kids have largely been taken home, and the feeling in the crowd is one markedly more chaotic. Half-drunk fans lolly-gag out of bar windows to the DJ's beats. Indie kids are rifling through their backpack looking for the cans of Old Style they snuck in (one of which I manage to snag).
It's finally starting to feel like a real music festival, but there's still no telling whether we are going to see something promising. Then the band begins to take the stage. Two Moog synthesizers, a vintage guitar, drumkit, sax. Two backup singers, dressed in bright African dresses, purple wigs and bright blue lipstick, take their places.
Then Ebony Bones herself takes the center. A native Londoner of Caribbean descent, she is decked in foam bangles from head to toe, puffy spikes jutting out from her shoulders. Under her uncontrollable blonde afro, her face is covered in neon makeup. The Weeble and I look at each other. This is going to be good.
When the music starts, it sends a shockwave through the crowd. It's an unrelenting, electric thump that doesn't please the senses so much as grab them by the spine and refuse to let go. How can I describe their sound? Neo-mutant-disco? Tribal dance-punk? Who cares! The point is that it's incredible! It's beyond fresh, beyond new. It's groundbreaking!
There are so many things happening in Miss Bones' music that it's hard to keep track. Synths and drums swirl together in an orgiastic uproar, punctuated by the tight, jangly guitar and blurping saxophone. Her lyrics--which are surprisingly understandable through the sound system--possess an iconoclastic cockiness. "We know all about you, yes we do" she declares from the front. It's never stated exactly who these words are directed at, but it's a safe bet that it's everyone who turn their noses up to such brash displays of independence.
To be sure, there is a great amount of women's lib taking place on this stage, played out in audacious melodrama. Miss Bones struts the stage with a dangerous, overstated confidence as she delivers powerful mini-manifestos: "don't throw me none, I don't want your bread-crumbs, don't throw me none, I'm not desperate for your baby." It's as if to say "that's right, I'm a brash black woman and that's enough to mow your chauvinistic ass to the ground."
As for the crowd, Miss Bones has them in the palm of her hand. We willingly comply as she insists us to the right, left, back and front. The Weeble and I can't stop dancing. Not like we just really want to dance--we literally can't stop ourselves!
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Ebony Bones is among a growing number of artists consciously pushing the boundaries of several genres at the same time. Her balance of funk, African polyrhythms, punk, synth-pop and electroclash is somewhere in the same grouping as artists like !!! and Santigold (insofar as these artists have anything in common). But the styles she toys with are a lot more than the sum of their parts. There's a large degree to which she is taking all the crap of the past and making it new, interesting and dynamic again. The cheap novelty items that make up her costume serve to only highlight the point: everything is disposable, and that's precisely what makes it ours.
Here, in this glossy oasis surrounded by a decaying industrial city, that's a kind of catharsis words can't express, and certainly a lot more than one would expect from an event like WPF. I could try to describe it, but the best way to experience it is simply to hear the music.
Forty-five minutes is simply not enough. When Miss Bones announces that this is her last song, the Weeble and I look at each other with disappointment. But before departing, she mentions another shocking fact: her first album,
Bone of My Bones, which was scheduled to be released in the States this summer, has been delayed indefinitely. She has gained quite the notoriety in her native Britain, in France, even Japan. And despite undoubtedly winning a whole new layer of fans in her first appearance in Chicago, these converts are being deprived her debut record.
"I mortgaged my house to buy it back from the record company, so hopefully it will be out by the end of the year. If not, just go to MySpace and you can listen to the whole thing yourself." Please do.
The feeling I have as Bones and company leave the stage is one of the rarest and most sought after for any music journalist: release mixed with excitement and hope. If an artist like Ebony Bones can infiltrate an event that tries hard not to step over the line, make it dangerous and exhilarating for a few moments, then it's worth wondering what else is bubbling beneath the surface in this tense era. There's a certain irony that the very same forces that turned Wicker Park into a near-playground brought Miss Bones right to its heart, and in turn have cut thousands of fans off from further delving into her work. But the contradiction is part of what makes it work so well. This must be what Marx's "gravediggers of capital" listen to.
The Weeble and I agreed: Ebony Bones made it all worth it. After they finished, we both went home. There was now no need to see the Smoking Popes. When you've caught a glint of the future, no matter how fleeting it might be, then nostalgia simply doesn't cut it.
This article originally appeared at SleptOn.com.*****